No rules to fear — just a few customs worth knowing.
An izakaya is Japan's version of a tavern: a place built around drinks, with food ordered in small plates to share (or not share). It is not a restaurant with a set course, and it is not a bar with a drinks-only menu — it sits happily in between. If it is your first time, the five steps below are genuinely all you need.
The one thing that surprises visitors is the cover charge (otoshi). Since “tourist trap” stories in nightlife districts are real, here is exactly how it works — at least in our taverns.
The cover charge is ¥438 per person, tax included. In return you get all-you-can-eat edamame — it is on your table the whole night, refilled as you go. It is charged once per person per visit, it is printed in this guide and on the menu, and nothing else is added that you didn't order.
Other taverns set their own otoshi, usually a few hundred yen with a small appetizer. The fair rule anywhere in Kabukicho: if a place cannot show you its prices — on a menu, a sign, or a website like this one — before you sit down, choose another place. Every shop in this guide has its prices or typical budget in the open.
Point at this table if pronunciation fails you — the Japanese text is what the staff will read.
| Say this | Japanese | It means |
|---|---|---|
| Kanpai! | 乾杯! | Cheers! |
| Nama-bīru kudasai | 生ビールください | A draft beer, please |
| Sumimasen | すみません | Excuse me (to call staff) |
| Osusume wa? | おすすめは? | What do you recommend? |
| Okaikei onegaishimasu | お会計お願いします | The check, please |
| Gochisousama deshita | ごちそうさまでした | Thank you for the meal (say it as you leave) |
Counter seats exist for solo guests, and ordering alone draws no attention at all. Small plates mean one person can still try five different dishes.
Walk-ins are the default for casual taverns, and some tiny alley shops take no reservations at all. For groups — or a Friday night — booking ahead helps; our banquet courses with two hours of all-you-can-drink run ¥3,300–¥6,600 including tax.
Each shop sets its own smoking policy, and it can differ even between neighbours in the same alley. Check the sign at the door, or ask the staff with a gesture — they will point you right.
Big chains take cards without trouble, but the smallest yokocho stalls can be cash-only. A few thousand yen in your pocket keeps every door in the alley open to you.
In Japan you must be 20 or older to drink alcohol, and shops may ask for ID.
Ready to go? See the 13 places in this guide, or plan a bar-hopping route through the alleys.
Back to the guide Bar-hopping in Shinjuku